Frequently Asked Questions

1 What is the most important thing that I can do to take care of my log home? The best thing that you can do is gain a basic understanding of log home care. Like all homes, log homes require maintenance from time to time. Understanding the basics of log home care will allow you to (1) recognize when maintenance is needed, (2) know the cause of the maintenance, and (3) choose the right solution. This knowledge will give you peace on mind, and allow you to provide the best protection at the lowest cost.  See Top Priority of Log Home Owners.

2 What is the difference between log home maintenance and restoration? 
A. Log home maintenance refers to the normal, minor procedures that are done, as needed, to keep a log home protected and looking great, such as adding a coat of stain or clear coat, or making minor repairs to chinking or caulk.
B. Log home restoration is generally considered to be the work required due to (1) finding a significant amount of rot in logs, requiring log replacements, and/or (2) the failure of one or more products used to protect a log home, such as stain, chink, and caulk, due to either (a) maintenance not being done correctly or in a timely manner, or (b) time and the elements eventually causing the need for restoration of the logs. Whether due to rotten logs or failure of log products, restoration normally includes removing all of the stain and other protective log products from the logs down to bare wood, and starting the protection process over. The typical restoration work steps include replacing rotten logs, if needed; removing stain and other log products down to bare wood; lightly sanding logs if desired; cleaning and prepping the logs; applying borate-based preservative to the logs; applying a primer if desired; applying caulking as needed; applying stain; applying chinking as needed; applying a clear topcoat (if used with the chosen stain); and applying a log end sealer, as needed, to log ends exposed to the weather.

3 How often should I clean my logs? We recommend cleaning the exterior surface of log homes at least annually. During the cleaning process, homeowners should inspect the logs for signs of rot or other areas of concern. We recommend performing the annual inspection in the spring so that any needed work can be done soon after the inspection. Putting off needed maintenance can turn a minor problem into a major one requiring significant repairs and costs. See Log Home Inspection.

5 I don’t understand how stains can be “breathable”.  How can a stain keep rain from getting to my logs, and yet allow moisture to escape from my logs through the stain? One of the most important qualities of premium log stains is breathability. While these stains protect the logs from rain, they also allow moisture trapped under the stain and on the logs to escape back through the stain. This is possible due to the difference in the sizes of water molecules and moisture vapor molecules. Premium log stains allow the smaller moisture vapor molecules to escape from the logs, but will not allow the larger water molecules to penetrate the stain. However, it is important to remember that even though premium log stains are breathable, too many coats of stain can diminish or eliminate their ability to breathe. You should never apply more coats of stain than recommended by the manufacturer.

6 Can I use only a clear coat on my logs? A clear coat is fine for interior log surfaces, but exterior log surfaces should never have only a clear finish. The pigments in stains are needed to protect exterior log surfaces from the damaging UV rays from the sun.

7 Can I paint my logs? Logs should never be painted. Since paint does not allow logs to breathe, it traps moisture in the logs, causing decay. Premium log stains are formulated to provide (1) a water repellent surface, while also allowing moisture vapor to escape from the logs, and (2) superior elasticity to allow the stain to stretch with the natural movement of wood without cracking or peeling. Because of their breathability and elasticity, we also recommend the use of quality log stains for all exterior wood surfaces. Quality log stains are available in both solid and semi-transparent finishes.

8 How often should I stain my log home? After the initial staining of a log home, the application of a “maintenance” coat of stain and/or clear topcoat is a normal step of log home maintenance. The frequency of applying a maintenance coat to a log home depends on many factors, including (1) design of the home, (2) location and climate, (3) the type of stain on the logs, and (4) the profile of the logs (i.e. round vs. flat). Some walls of a log home may need stain when other walls do not. Due to the amount of exposure to UV rays, the southern and western sides of a log home normally require maintenance more often than the northern and eastern sides. Similarly, log walls with higher exposure to the elements will require maintenance more often than log walls protected by wider roof overhangs or a porch roof. Signs that suggest that a maintenance coat of stain and/or clear top coat may be needed include (1) water does not bead up well on the existing stain, (2) the stain or clear coat has lost its sheen, and (3) the stain color has begun to fade.

Stain is OK. Stain has lost sheen. Needs a maintenance coat.

Stain is OK. Stain has lost sheen, and begun to fade. Needs a maintenance coat.

Stain is OK. Stain has lost sheen, and begun to fade. Needs a maintenance coat.

Stain is OK. Stain has lost sheen, and begun to fade. Needs a maintenance coat.

9The stain on my logs is peeling. What should I do? Peeling of stain is an indicator that the stain has failed. At some point, in the areas where the stain is peeling, you will need to remove the existing stain and other log products down to bare wood, and then go through the clean, prep, and log product application process to protect the logs.

Stain has failed due to peeling.

Stain has failed due to peeling.

Stain has failed due to peeling.

10What are the differences between chink and caulk, and which one should I use? While both chink and caulk are used to seal the joints and gaps in log homes, chinking is typically used to seal joints that are 1 inch wide or wider, while caulk is normally used to seal joints or gaps less than 1 inch wide. Quality synthetic log home chink and caulk have excellent adhesion and elasticity properties that keep the joints sealed while having the ability to stretch and contract with log movement for years.

A. Chink.  Synthetic log home chink is normally textured to look like mortar, but it has far superior properties that provide long-term protection for your log home. In addition to its primary use in wider log joints, chink is commonly used for sealing joints between log walls and concrete, brick or stone. Chink is normally used in a color that contrasts with the color of the logs.

Chinking applied to a log home during restoration.

Chinking being applied to a new log home.

Caulk being applied to a log home during restoration.

Caulk applied to the joints under an eave of a log home during restoration.

11Should log joints be caulked? All log joints should always be sealed with either chink or caulk. Some log home companies claim that caulking is unnecessary with their log homes due to the tight fit of their logs. However, regardless of how well logs fit in a new log home, over time logs move and gaskets in log joints break down and fail, allowing moisture, air, and insects to enter log joints. Premium log chink and caulk, which expand and contract with the natural movement of logs, will protect logs from moisture and insects, as well as eliminate drafts, and improve the energy efficiency of a log home.

12Should cracks in logs be caulked? As logs dry, the appearance of cracks, which are typically called checks in logs, is natural. While a large crack or split in a weight-bearing structural log or timber should be checked by an expert, the normal checks in logs are a natural occurrence that shows the unique character and beauty of logs. Checks are not a concern on interior log walls. However, checks in exterior log surfaces can be a problem. Exterior upward-facing checks should be caulked to keep out water that otherwise would lead to rot. Even though upward-facing exterior checks are more of a problem, we recommend caulking all exterior checks that are at least 1/4 inch wide to protect from insects and air leakage that can hurt the energy efficiency of the home. Checks less than 1/4 inch wide are normally not caulked, because the caulk in such thin checks would likely fail with natural log movement. If you have an exterior check with width that varies from over 1/4 inch to less than 1/4 inch, we recommend caulking the entire check. The steps of the typical process for caulking an exterior check are:
A. Clean the check cavity using a log home chemical cleaner to remove dirt, dust, pollen, loose wood fiber, and insects, and kill mold, mildew, and algae,
B. Thoroughly remove the cleaner with water using a water hose or pressure washer at a low pressure setting, and let it dry,
C. Coat the inside of the check with a borate-based preservative to protect the log from any rot that may be inside the check, and let it dry,
D. If the wood in the check appears weak or soft, consider solidifying it with liquid epoxy,
E. If there is room in the check, put backer material in the check cavity, leaving a depth of 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch for caulk, and
F. Seal the check with premium log caulk in the color that best matches the stain on the logs.

Log checks need to be cleaned and caulked.

Log checks need to be cleaned and caulked.

13What causes cracks in chink or caulk? The most likely causes are: (1) the logs have moved farther apart than the chink or caulk could stretch, (2) backer was not used, which limits the stretching capability of chink and caulk, (3) the chink or caulk was installed either too thin or too thick, or (4) the age of and/or the cumulative UV damage to the chink or caulk has caused the chink or caulk to crack.

Chinking is cracking. Need to remove the cracked chinking, clean the log joint, and apply new chinking in that log joint.

Caulk in the check in the lower log is cracking.  The existing caulk in that check needs to be removed, and all of the checks need to be cleaned and caulked.

14What causes caulk and chinking to separate from one side of a log joint? This is normally caused by the logs of the log joint not being properly cleaned and prepped prior to applying the caulk or chinking. When the surfaces on both sides of a log joint are properly cleaned and dry, premium log caulk and chinking will strongly adhere to these surfaces for many years, as well as have the elasticity to stretch with the natural movement of the logs without cracking. However, it is important to use a bond breaker, usually backer rod, in the joint behind the caulk or chink. Since the caulk or chink will not adhere to the backer rod, by adhering only to the two sides of the joint, the caulk or chink will be able to stretch to its maximum capability.

Caulk is separating from the log.  Need to remove the old caulk, clean the log joint, and apply new caulk.

Chinking is separating from the log.  Need to remove the old chinking, clean the log joint, and apply new chinking.

15What can I do to protect my logs from rot? Ways to protect against log decay include (1) having roof overhangs at least two feet (preferably more) from log walls, (2) keeping the lowest course of logs a minimum of two feet above the ground, porch or deck, (3) not mounting the base of log or wood posts directly to the ground, pier, porch, or foundation, (4) making sure that water from sprinklers cannot reach the logs even on windy days, (5) using guttering that is functioning properly without leaks, (6) keeping plants at least three feet from log walls, (7) applying a borate-based preservative to logs prior to staining, (8) installing borate rods in moisture-prone areas of logs, (9) applying premium log stain to the logs, (10) chinking or caulking all log joints, (11) caulking upward-facing, problem-causing, exterior checks in logs, (12) protecting log ends exposed to the weather with a log end sealant, and (13) annually cleaning and inspecting exterior log surfaces.

16Some of my lower logs are turning black. What can cause this? Darkening of logs is normally a sign of decay. It is common for lower courses of logs to decay due to splashback from rain hitting the nearby ground, uncovered porch, or deck. Wider roof overhangs, covered porches, and the addition of guttering are ways to correct this problem. If the logs are turning black, they should be inspected to determine if the logs need to be replaced.

Darker color of the bottom log indicates that it has decay.

Bottom log on the right is rotten, and the two lowest corner log ends are rotting.

17I have logs extending from my log home that support a balcony, and water is starting to decay the tops of these logs. What should I do? It is not uncommon for logs to extend out from a log wall to support a balcony or deck. Water runs through the deck boards and sits on the tops of these logs, eventually causing decay. If this situation is caught before the log decay has gone too far, the deck boards should be removed, and a solid, outwardly down-sloping deck should be installed with a special waterproofing system that will keep water off of these supporting logs.

The longer purlins in this photo previously supported a balcony that has been removed. Extensive rot can be seen in the purlin on the right end.

This view of the same purlins shows further evidence of the extensive rot in the purlin on the right end.

This photo shows the tops of two of the purlins that had supported the balcony that was removed. Evidence of extensive rot is seen in the closer of these two purlins.

18Are log homes energy efficient? Yes, a log home that is well constructed and properly sealed is a very energy efficient home. Due to the thermal mass of the logs, a log home is typically cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter than a conventional home.

19How do I find a good log home builder? Choose a contractor who specializes in log home construction. Take the time to look at current and, more importantly, past log homes that the contractor has built. Talk to the owners of these log homes. Ask the owners what problems they have had with the log home and what they would have done differently. Most log home owners are happy to share their building experience. When in the building process, you should always consider incorporating design features that will provide better protection for your log home, especially protection against water.

20How do I choose the right contractor for maintenance or repairs of my log home? The first step in choosing the right contractor is educating yourself on the issues causing the need for work, and the right solution for your need. Armed with the proper knowledge, you will then be able to only consider contractors who understand the problem, and propose the proper solution. Once you find knowledgeable contractors, you can check their references and compare costs.

For the RIGHT SOLUTION for your log home concern,
call Log Home Resource Center at 800-441-1564.